The hammam sits three meters below street level in a 14th-century Mudejar building that was part of the old Alcazaba defences. The space was rediscovered in 1998 and opened to the public in 2003.
Three rooms: hot (40°C, 100% humidity), warm (35°C, 60%), cold (18°C). Stone benches carved from the original 14th-century fabric. Candles in glass. The roof is a star-pattern pierced dome that lets in a single shaft of natural light at noon.
The 60-minute bath pass is 28€. Add a 30-minute massage for 35€ more. The kessa scrub with black soap and a kessa glove is 18€. Cash and card.
You can book online or walk in. Weekday mornings are quietest. The 11am slot is the best of the day: light, water, no crowds.
Ladies days: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday. Mixed days: Monday, Wednesday, Friday.
Staff are bilingual. Towels and soap provided.